Best ingredients for melasma: what each one does

Tranexamic acid: pigment-targeting active

Use tranexamic acid to help fade the look of stubborn dark patches and uneven tone. It sits best morning or evening, around 2–5% in serums, beginning daily after a few days of every-other-day use.

Typical sensation: light and non-stinging for most skin. Timeline: eight to twelve weeks. Be careful with layering with several exfoliants.

Azelaic acid: dicarboxylic acid

The usual job of azelaic acid is to calm the look of redness, even out tone and help with post-blemish marks. Typical strength is 10% cosmetic, 15–20% typically prescribed, used morning or evening; start once daily after a week of every other day.

Typical sensation: tingling for the first weeks that eases. Timeline: six to twelve weeks for tone and redness. Be careful with other strong acids on the same night while adapting.

Vitamin C: antioxidant (L-ascorbic acid and derivatives)

Use vitamin C to help neutralise free radicals from sun and pollution and brighten the look of uneven tone. It sits best morning, under sunscreen, around 10–15% L-ascorbic acid or 2–10% gentler derivatives, beginning daily if tolerated, every other day for sensitive skin.

Typical sensation: slight tingle on pure ascorbic forms, none with derivatives. Timeline: eight to twelve weeks for tone and brightness. Be careful with strong acids layered right before it.

Putting them together without overdoing it

Do not start all of them in one week. Add the first, wait two to four weeks, then add the second. For melasma, tranexamic acid usually goes first, alongside this adjustment: switch to a tinted mineral SPF 50 and reapply every two hours outdoors.

Avoid waxing affected areas and high-heat facials without protection while you test.

A zone-by-zone check

Whole-face impressions hide progress. Check each of these zones on its own, in the same light, once a week.

Troubleshooting

Most setbacks are predictable. Here is what to do about each.

Frequently asked questions